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      1/32 Hasegawa F-16C Conversion 
      F-16C Barak 
      
      
      by Michael Ibbotson 
        
      
        
          
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            F-16C Barak  | 
           
         
       
      
       
      
        
      
      
      Hasegawa's 
      1/32 scale F-16C is
      available online from Squadron 
        
      
      
        
      You cannot be interested in 
      modern military history without reading a great deal about Middle Eastern 
      conflicts.  
      From a modelling 
      perspective, such conflicts offer a wealth of aircraft colour schemes. In 
      a world where most air forces paint their aircraft grey, Middle Eastern 
      countries persist with far more interesting two or three tone colour 
      schemes. In this regard, aircraft from the Israeli Air Force (IAF) have 
      always attracted me. The IAF use a striking paint scheme for their modern 
      aircraft involving light grey undersides and swirls of yellow/sand, brown 
      and green on the upper surfaces. 
        
       
  
      
        
      I chose to build an Israeli 
      F-16C ‘Barak’ using the 1/32 Hasegawa kit. Construction of the F-16 is 
      fairly straightforward, with the majority of parts fitting very well. On 
      the down side, the majority of panel lines are raised, so I was forced to 
      sand them off. As was the trend when the kit was first produced, there are 
      some recessed panel lines but they are very deep and somewhat unrealistic. 
      The cure for this was to sand the areas around the recessed lines until 
      they were very shallow, therefore producing a better scale effect. This is 
      particularly important for the panel lines on the spine of the aircraft. 
      The good news is that the plastic is very thick in these areas, thus 
      allowing a lot of sanding without going through the surface. Having 
      pointed out this bad area of the kit, it is worth noting that Hasegawa 
      most certainly got the overall shape of the jet correct. There is no doubt 
      that once built the Hasegawa F-16 looks like the real thing, which cannot 
      be said for the Revell kit. 
       
      As normal, I started with cockpit construction and I had to make sure that 
      I chose the F-16C instrument panels because the F-16A instruments are also 
      supplied. I think the cockpit looks good and doesn’t need a resin 
      replacement. I used a spare ACES II ejector seat from a Tamiya F-15C kit, 
      which is far better than the white metal seat provided by Hasegawa. 
        
      
        
        
      I cut some lead strips from 
      the top of a brandy bottle and some 1/32 scale etched-brass buckles from 
      Reheat to create the harnesses. I liked the helmet that came with the 
      original kit, so I made it and placed it on the ejector seat. The only 
      really hard work in the cockpit area was the canopy. I had to remove a 
      very large seam, which required a great deal of sanding. Toothpaste was 
      used to polish out all of the sanding scratches after the seam had been 
      removed. Once done, I sprayed the inside of the canopy with Tamiya clear, 
      which had been mixed with a drop of yellow. This gave the canopy an 
      authentic golden tint. The canopy was then dipped in Future and allowed to 
      dry in a very warm room. It is important that drying occurs quickly 
      because the Future will dissolve the Tamiya clear, thus generating yellow 
      streaks. 
       
      As I was building a late model Israeli F-16C, I used the ‘new tool’ 
      exhaust components that come in the kit. They replicate the petals found 
      on the GE 110 engine, which requires more air than its predecessor and 
      consequently needs a wider air intake. To solve this problem on the model, 
      I purchased the Seamless Suckers wide-mouth resin update set. According to 
      the instructions, it should be possible to simply slot this resin part 
      into the kit to replace the plastic intake components. However, the resin 
      part is enormously over scaled in the vertical dimension and I couldn’t 
      work out how to modify it easily to fit. Having said that, the redeeming 
      feature of the resin component was that the mouth of the inlet did have 
      the correct width and height. So, what to do? After much thought, I cured 
      the problem by cutting off the rear of the resin component and discarding 
      it. 
        
      
        
       
       
      I used the inlet section from the plastic kit as a cutting guide such that 
      the resin part was the same length as the plastic component. I sanded the 
      top and bottom of the resin component until it had the correct vertical 
      size. The resin is so thick that I had no problems sanding many 
      millimetres of material away. The sanding process had the added advantage 
      that it removed all the ugly recessed and raised surface details from the 
      resin block. I then glued the resin part to the front of the inlet ducting 
      of the plastic kit using super glue. To my great joy, I discovered that 
      the inner dimensions of the resin part matched the diameter of the plastic 
      component. I glued strips of plastic onto the kit to match the width of 
      the fuselage to the width of the resin inlet. 
      Once done, I applied a lot 
      of putty both in and out of the inlet. Also, the upper splitter plate on 
      the inlet is way too long and needs to be carved and sanded into a more 
      accurate shape. I spent a lot of time sanding, washing, painting and 
      refilling to get a smooth finish (F-16C_intake_spray.jpg). Finally, you 
      end up with an air intake that you can look into without any apparent 
      seams. I also added the little ECM winglets to the sides of the intake, 
      which were scratch built from thick plastic strips (F-16C_intake.jpg). 
      Other scratch built additions included the slightly enlarged ECM bulges on 
      the nose (carved plastic), a small starter intake under the right wing 
      root (built up from plastic strip), the ECM probes on the wing leading 
      edges (plastic rod) and several parts on the tail (carved plastic and 
      brass rod). I had great fun finding the reference material! 
      
      Click the thumbnails below to view larger 
      images: 
      
      The fit of the nose cone to 
      the fuselage is not very precise. I had to do some careful filling and 
      sanding to get the nose to fit properly. I filled the nose cone space with 
      metal weights to prevent building a tail sitter, which isn’t a problem if 
      you use the white-metal seat provided by Hasegawa.  
      
       Two 
      tail planes are supplied in the kit and I used the ‘C’ version, which is 
      the one with the large base and the recessed panel lines. The Israeli 
      Barak has a parachute housing at the rear of the tail base and I used the 
      Seamless Suckers resin parachute housing as a way of modify the kit. 
      The Seamless Suckers resin 
      part is a replica of the Norwegian F-16A tail extension. It has the 
      correct length, height and shape but is too narrow for the F-16C. I glued 
      the resin tail base extension onto the plastic kit component after 
      removing the short tail extension that comes as standard on the kit part. 
      I then thickened the resin part with plastic sheet and smoothed the 
      surface with putty. Again, the very roughly molded recessed panel lines 
      and ECM bulges on the resin component were filled and sanded and more 
      accurate parts scratch built from plastic strip and rod.  
       
      I shortened the front undercarriage strut slightly by cutting 2 mm from 
      the top and filing the wheel flat at the bottom. This gave the F-16C a 
      level appearance, which simply looks better! In doing this, I made the 
      centre-line fuel tank hang too low, so I sanded 1 mm from the base of the 
      pylon before attachment.  
      I did not add the large 
      under-wing fuel tanks but I think the kit offerings look very good if you 
      did want to attach them. I also chose not to add many weapons to my model 
      as they spoil the beauty of the F-16. The exceptions were the AIM-9Ls on 
      the wing tips, which I scavenged from a Tamiya F-15 kit. 
        
       
  
      
        
      The F-16 has a three-tone 
      camouflage scheme on the upper surfaces and a light ghost grey underside 
      (F-16C_rear.jpg). The aircraft was painted using Gunze-Sangyo acrylics. 
      The grey underside was painted with light ghost grey (H308, FS36375) and 
      then the top surfaces were sprayed with yellow (H313, FS33531). The pale 
      green was concocted by mixing G-S duck-egg green (H74) with light ghost 
      grey and a drop of flat white. The quoted colour for the light green is 
      FS34424, which is supposedly the same as G-S H74. However, H74 is far too 
      bright and needed toning down with grey and lightening with white. The 
      exact mix is unknown as I played with the mixtures until I felt that I had 
      matched the colour to my references. The final colour for the camouflage 
      pattern was brown (H310, FS30219). The nose cone was painted neutral grey 
      (H306, FS36270), as were the flat side panels inboard of the horizontal 
      stabilizers, the wing tip pylons and the insides of the air brakes. All 
      the walkways were spray painted dark grey after masking (H333). This was 
      necessary because the walkways that come with the kit decal sheet are 
      light grey, which is appropriate for USAF aircraft but not IAF planes. I 
      spray painted the large scorpion on the tail using a template constructed 
      by correctly scaling a photocopy of the tail plane and then cutting out 
      the shape of the scorpion. The small white disk at the top of the tail was 
      also sprayed using a circular mask. The model was then coated in gloss 
      prior to applying decals. 
        
      
        
        
       
      Most stencilling is in English so the decals from the kit can be used. 
      Stars of David, squadron insignia and tail codes are available on the 
      Cutting Edge F-4 decal set, which is excellent. The decals are very thin 
      and react with Set and Sol beautifully. Other features such as the red and 
      white chevrons on the tail base were made by cutting triangles of red and 
      white from the Cutting Edge decal sheet and placing them in layers onto 
      the model. I then drew black edges around the decals using a fine 
      permanent marker pen. After applying the first dull coat, I re-applied the 
      panel lines using a sharp HB pencil. Following from early modelling 
      experiences in which I tried to re-scribe panel lines into plastic, I 
      simply don’t do it any more. I personally think that fine pencil lines 
      give a far better scale effect than re-scribed lines. I guided the pencil 
      using Tamiya tape or the edge of a ruler (when I had access to flat 
      surfaces such as the wings).  
        
      
        
        
      Weathering was done using 
      overcoats of flat clear mixed with a drop of H313 and a little H308. This 
      flattened the surface, made the pencil lines blend into the model and 
      added colour balance. I then used pastels to add some grime in places. 
        
       
  
      
        
      So there it is, a 1/32 scale 
      replica of an IAF F-16C. I highly recommend the project. As far as 1/32 
      scale projects are concerned, the F-16 doesn’t even come out that large 
      when finished! 
        
      
       
        
      
        
      Click the 
      thumbnails below to view larger images: 
      
       
      Model, Images and Text Copyright © 
      2003 by Michael Ibbotson 
      Page Created 17 October, 2003 
      Last Updated
      17 March, 2004 
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