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		Fiat G.50bis Freccia 
		
		
		by Werner Scheibling 
		  
		
			
				
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					 Fiat G 50bis 
					Serie V, MM. 5945,  
					20° Gruppo Autonomo C.T., 352a Squadriglia, 
					Martuba (Libya), June 1941  | 
				 
			 
		 
		  
		
		
		  
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		Italian Classic's full resin kit with additional 
		white metal and photo-etch parts is one of three options (next to 
		Hasegawa/Secter's injection-molded and Pacific Coast Models' mixed media 
		kit) available to those who want to build a Fiat G 50 in 1/48 scale.  
		Apart from being the most expensive, it is 
		unfortunately also the trickiest kit to build. It kept me busy for 
		nearly one and a half years nonstop.  
		If you calculate how much the average modeller 
		might spend on mainstream kits in that time, it's not such a bad deal 
		after all (does that sound a bit like an excuse?) 
		While talking about costs I should also mention 
		that it is almost essential to have access to the 'Ali d'Italia' 
		reference book on the Fiat G 50. This is where I found all the necessary 
		plans and information to figure out how the parts go together. The kit's 
		instructions are photocopies of hand-drawn sketches and are not very 
		helpful, to say the least. 
		Other 'musts' while tackling this kit are a 
		reliable electric tool with various milling and grinding bits, a razor 
		saw and - if possible - a set of calipers or a pair of dividers for 
		essential measuring.  
		  
		
		  
		 
		 
		In an extremely sturdy cardboard box you'll find 150 resin, white metal 
		and photo-etch parts, tightly packed in several zip-lock bags. In 
		amongst this multitude are two types of cowlings (smooth or with rocker 
		cover bulges), two different gun-bay covers (small or large bulges), 
		both kinds of spinners (small or sand proof), both kinds of carburettor 
		air intakes (open or with sand filter) and finally underwing racks plus 
		bombs. In this way the kit allows you to build virtually any possible G 
		50bis/AS configuration. 
		The resin casting in my kit was unfortunately a bit 
		on the disappointing side – there were quite a few unnecessary casting 
		imperfections that needed hours of clean-up, and some nasty trapped air 
		bubbles where I least wanted them.  
		The material on the other hand is of very good 
		quality – strong, elastic and very break resistant. This makes the work 
		with very delicate parts, like the paper-thin landing gear covers, much 
		less nerve-wracking.  
		 
		All important internal fuselage parts are represented, even a petrol 
		tank under the cockpit floor and several bulkheads that will disappear 
		forever in the fuselage unless you decide to build a museum style 
		cutaway model.  
		 
		As the kit does not include a decal sheet it is necessary to find a 
		suitable after market set. I went for the 'Sky Models' sheet, printed by 
		'Cartograf', as it is readily available and of highest quality.  
		  
		  
		
		  
		Sequence 
		The best way to build this very complex resin kit 
		is to break up the project into independent sub-assemblies which should 
		finally be joined together after they have been completely finished - 
		including painting and weathering. 
		I chose the following order: 
		
			- 
			
cockpit   
			- 
			
			fuselage/wing/tailplane   
			- 
			
engine/cowling   
			- 
			
airbrushing and 
			decalling   
			- 
			
undercarriage   
			- 
			
final detail parts 
			(propeller, pitot and venturi tubes, aileron mass balances and trim 
			tab actuators.) 
   
		 
		If I had decided to show my model with a detachable 
		gun bay cover (the parts are there and I was strongly tempted!) this 
		would have led to a further complex sub-assembly. 
		  
		
		  
		  
		The decision to put all these nice resin parts into 
		the spares box was not an easy one. After hours of measuring with 
		calipers and dry fitting, I came to the conclusion that it would be next 
		to impossible to cut and assemble the involved parts so precisely that 
		the resulting panel lines wouldn't stand out embarrassingly. 
		Leaving the gun bay cover off permanently would 
		have ruined the G 50's typical silhouette - the hump between cowling and 
		windshield being the type's giveaway recognition feature.  
		 
		 
		Cockpit 
		The inner fuselage side panels had to be cleaned up 
		before I could add all the necessary plumbing from copper wire in 
		various widths (0,1 - 0,3 mm). The castings of the four compressed air 
		and oxygen bottles behind the pilot's seat were bad and it took a whole 
		evening of creative sanding to achieve a halfway round appearance. I 
		painted these items a neutral metal colour as I could not find any 
		reference on their original colouring (if there ever was any). The real 
		G 50 needed all this compressed air for its pneumatic engine starter and 
		wheel brakes. 
		  
		
		  
		
		Click the thumbnails below to view larger 
		images: 
		
 
		Other parts like seat support frame, control 
		column, rudder pedal bar, instrument panel lights and various levers 
		were built from scratch. 
		The intricately curved and angled instrument panel 
		was created using Eduard's early PE set for the Hasegawa/Secter kit and 
		thin styrene sheet.  
		  
		
		  
		  
		The pilot's safety harness is a generic item from 
		RCR's excellent PE set. 
		 
		  
		Fuselage/Wing/Tailplane 
		The casting of all involved parts is generally rich 
		in detail, but unfortunately very vague concerning precise dimensions. 
		It's not always completely clear where the part ends and the casting 
		block starts.  
		With lots of dry fitting and measuring against the 
		excellent scale plans in the 'Ali d'Italia' book I came up with the 
		following assembly sequence: 
		First the width of the fuselage has to be defined 
		via measurements taken from the one part wing (wing root to wing root), 
		from the front and rear upper fuselage deckings and from the tail cone. 
		Then the width of the cockpit floor has to be adjusted accordingly. As 
		you can see in the photos I had to insert slivers of sheet styrene along 
		the front bulkhead (which also serves as an attachment point for the 
		engine and should therefore be very sturdy), along the seam of the lower 
		fuselage and around the rear fuselage decking to make everything fit 
		properly. 
		Before both upper fuselage deckings can be 
		installed, it is vital to mark, on both fuselage halves, where the 
		pilot's small entrance doors will later go. These markings define the 
		position of front and rear fuselage decking and not vice versa! 
		Otherwise you might find out that the model is nearly finished and the 
		gap you left for the doors is too wide or too narrow... 
		The addition of tail cone, vertical and horizontal 
		tail surfaces completed the basic fuselage sub-assembly. 
		I reinforced the attachment areas of vertical and horizontal tail 
		surfaces and all movable flying surfaces with stubs of brass wire, to 
		make sure I could handle the assembled model safely. 
		 
		To the best of my knowledge, the one piece wing with separate flaps and 
		ailerons started its career as a replacement part ('corrected wing') for 
		the Hasegawa/Secter kit.  
		This is unfortunately the reason for one of the 
		kit's major assembly problems. It is also the only part that has raised 
		panel lines, which I removed and re-engraved. The two oil-cooler air 
		intakes are depicted as elliptical openings, whereas they should be 
		round. As one of the openings was badly miscast, I decided to drill them 
		both out and add the three-piece shutters from little styrene strips. 
		When I dryfitted the completed fuselage against the 
		wing I noticed to my horror that the rear section of the one piece wing 
		was nearly one millimetre shallower than the fuselage at that point, 
		resulting in either a matching lower fuselage or upper wing root 
		connection – but not both at the same time. I guess this is an 
		inheritance of the wing's earlier life as a replacement part for the 
		Hasegawa/Secter kit. But that certainly doesn't give you any comfort 
		while trying to build this resin kit. I wondered many times, also during 
		later stages, whether the master maker had actually ever tried to 
		assemble his own creation. 
		  
		
		  
		  
		In the end I performed a deep and wide horizontal 
		cut with a cutting disc into the back of the wing and jammed slivers of 
		sheet styrene into the gap to widen the wing (see photo). Now the wing 
		had the right depth to follow the fuselage contours perfectly. 
		  
		
		  
		 
		 
		Ailerons and flaps were attached with stubs of brass wire that fitted 
		into pre-drilled holes. I used five-minute-epoxy throughout for these 
		connections. 
		To give the lowered flaps an authentic sit it is 
		necessary to keep the following in mind: In reality the flaps moved 
		slightly down on hinges (visible from underneath) while they rotated 
		downwards. This resulted in a visible gap between the wing's upper 
		trailing edge and the flaps.  
		
			
			Click the thumbnails below to view 
			larger images: 
			
 
		 
		 
		 
		Engine / Cowling 
		Again all the necessary resin parts are there to 
		build a very detailed and complete Fiat A74 RC38 14-cylinder radial 
		(even with carburettor and magnetos if desired). 
		The only items needed to be added by the modeller 
		are OHV push-rods, which have to be cut to length from suitable round 
		material. I used 0,4 mm copper wire for that job.  
		Other scratch built items that I decided to add 
		were single oil feed lines that run from the reduction gear case to each 
		individual front row cylinder head, intake tubes and ignition harness. 
		All parts, especially the cylinders, have to be 
		exactly measured, filed to length and aligned to make sure the 
		peripheral parts fit to the cylinders and the assembled engine fits into 
		the cowling. 
		  
		
		  
		
		Click the thumbnails below to view larger 
		images: 
		
		 
		In my case this was the late style cowling with 
		bulges. After removing the massive casting block that engulfs both the 
		in- and outside of the cowl ring I modelled open cowl flaps from 'Dymo'-tape 
		to expose at least a tiny bit of the engine's rear. 
		The completely finished model engine was carefully 
		centered and aligned inside the cowling with the help of a template and 
		3 little slivers of styrene sheet, tightly fitted between cowling and 
		cylinder heads. This exact position was secured with some drops of 
		five-minute-epoxy and left to harden thoroughly. 
		The engine/cowling assembly was joined to the 
		airframe after both airbrushing and decaling were completely finished. I 
		was surprised about the perfect fit, something I had no longer expected. 
		A generous amount of five-minute-epoxy assured a durable connection. 
		 
		 
  
		
		  
		Airbrushing and Decaling 
		The Serie V of G 50bis built by Fiat's own 
		Aeritalia factory in Turin sported the standard three-tone upper 
		camouflage colours of Verde Mimetico 3 (camo green) and Marrone Mimetico 
		2 (camo red-brown) over a base coat of Giallo Mimetico 3 (camo yellow) – 
		this time not in spots, but in alternating diagonal stripes along the 
		fuselage and in ragged patches on the horizontal flying surfaces. 
		The undersurfaces were painted Grigio Mimetico (camo 
		grey). 
		  
		
		  
		  
		The camouflage shades are my own slightly darkened 
		mixes from the range of LIFECOLOR 'Regia Aeronautica' acrylics. I prefer 
		to work with LIFECOLOR matt acrylics, as they flow incredibly fine and 
		evenly from my IWATA HP-BS airbrush and do not tend to clog the nozzle 
		too quickly. I found out that the trick is to keep the paint rather 
		thick and turn the air pressure up to 15-18 bar (~ 22-28 psi) – rather 
		the opposite of what is generally recommended for detail work. 
		First I sketched the intricate camouflage pattern 
		on photocopied scale planes, using the variety of published b/w photos 
		of '352-4' as a guide. These sketches were a great help airbrushing the 
		camo pattern free-hand later. 
		For the first time I tried Johnson's Klear (the 
		British version of Johnson's Future) as a gloss undercoat for decaling. 
		A test shot on a piece of LIFECOLOR-ed scrap went well so I got the Fiat 
		out. When the liquid touched the readily camouflaged model it curled up 
		into round droplets and wouldn't straighten out. After a few seconds a 
		milky white residue started to show. I immediately held the affected 
		area under running water to get rid of the mess before the Klear had any 
		time to cure. In the end I used PollyScale Semi-Gloss Clear with great 
		results, as all the other years before. 
		The decals went on beautifully without a trace of 
		silvering. Even the tiny Matricola Militare serial (MM. 5945), whose 
		digits had to be cut singly from the excellent 'Sky Models' sheet, 
		presented no problem. 
		Everything was sealed with a coat of PollyScale 
		Flat Clear.  
		Panel lines were accentuated with various shades of 
		dark brown pastel dust. Certain areas, like wheel wells and the yellow 
		cowling were additionally treated with light washes of 'burnt umber' oil 
		paint. 
		After several days of drying the model got one more final layer of flat 
		clear. 
		  
		  
		
		 
		 
		Undercarriage 
		To cut a long story short: The kit's white metal 
		parts, with the exception of the wheel forks, had to go straight into 
		the dustbin. The material is so soft, that the tail wheel couldn't 
		possibly carry the resin kit's weight. The parts themselves were so 
		shabbily cast, that I couldn't think of a single method to achieve 
		straight u/c legs with a round circumference from them. 
		So, I constructed new legs from styrene rod with a 
		brass wire core and attached the heavily reworked wheel forks with 
		five-minute-epoxy. This assembly was completed with the complex landing 
		gear covers, which are partly kit (resin, photo-etch) or scratchbuilt 
		items made from styrene sheet.  
		  
		
		  
		
		Click the thumbnails below to view larger 
		images: 
		
		The tail wheel fork was hand carved from an old 
		Tamiya Corsair part, attached to a brass wire strut.  
		All wheels are original 'Italian Classic' parts. 
		 
		 
		Final Details 
		Two rather complex pitot tubes had to be 
		constructed from styrene sheet and rod plus 0,2 mm copper wire - these 
		are not provided with the kit. 
		As this aeroplane wasn't equipped with a radio set, 
		I didn't have to worry about aerial wires - which was nice. 
		 
		Finally, the proud pilot is from Mike Good's classic set 'Two Italian 
		Pilots WW II', which he did for Jaguar Models quite a few years ago. 
		Figures in that scale can't be sculpted more realistically than this 
		one! 
		  
		  
		
		  
		Resources 
		
			- 
			
'Italian Classic' 
			1/48 resin kit #006, Fiat G 50 Serie VII bis/AS  
			- 
			
'RCR Models' 1/48 
			PE set #S16, Fibbie E Cinture Regia Aeronautica (Regia Aeronautica 
			buckles and belts)  
			- 
			
'Eduard' 1/48 PE 
			set #48-032, Fiat G 50 for Secter kit  
			- 
			
'Sky Models' 1/48 
			decal sheet # 48-026, Fiat G 50  
		 
		Not really essential, but much better than the kit 
		parts, if you should come across them: 
		
			- 
			
'Falcon Clear–Vax 
			Canopies' 1/48 scale set No. 37, WWII fighters pt.2, Fiat G 50 
			standard canopy (for Secter/Hasegawa kit) (o.o.p.)  
			- 
			
'Aires' 1/48 
			resin/PE set #4009, Browning M2 .50cal (only resin barrels used)  
		 
		 
		  
		Bibliography 
		
			- 
			
'Ali d'Italia' 
			No.6, Fiat G 50, by Piero Vergnano,  
			La Bancarella Aeronautica, Torino / Giorgio Apostolo Editore, Milano  
			- 
			
'Ali e Colori' 
			No.3, Fiat G 50 – I Colori Del Fiat G 50, Macchine-Piloti-Storie, 
			by Paolo Waldis, Marino De Bortoli, Angelo Brioschi 
			La Bancarella Aeronautica, Torino / Giorgio Apostolo Editore, Milan  
			- 
			
'Profile 
			Publications' No.188, The Fiat G.50, by Gianni Cattaneo 
			'Dimensione Cielo', Immagini A1, Caccia Assalto, by Emilio Brotzu 
			and Gherardo Cosolo, Edizioni Bizzarri, Roma, 1972  
			(These interesting series of photo publications have recently been 
			re-published by  
			Aviolibri - IBN Editore - Instituto Bibliographico Napoleone, Roma 
			and show rare photos of Fiat CR.32+G 50, Breda Ba.65+88.  
			- 
			
'Scale Aviation 
			Modeller International', Vol.7 No.2, Feb. 2001, Fiat G.50 'Freccia' 
			by Richard Caruana  
			- 
			
Wings of Italy - 
			The Italian Airforce in Original WW II Colour Pictures, 
			by Gregory Alegi and Baldassare Catalanotto, Giorgio Apostolo 
			Editore, Milano, 
			ISBN: 88-87261-01-6  
			- 
			
Colori & Insegne 
			Regia Aeronautica Caccia & Assalto 1940 -43, Parte I / 
			Camouflage and Markings of the Regia Aeronautica, Fighter and Ground 
			Attack Units 1940-43 Part One, by Paolo Waldis, Marino De Bortoli 
			and Angelo Brioschi, 
			La Bancarella Aeronautica, Torino / Giorgio Apostolo Editore, Milano 
   
		 
		  
		
		  
		
		Click the thumbnails below to view larger 
		images: 
		
            
              
              
                
                  Italian Aces of World War 
					2 
                  
                  
                  Aircraft of the Aces 34 | 
                  
                  
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                  Author: Giorgio Apostolo 
					Illustrator: Richard Caruana 
                  US Price: $19.95 
                  UK Price: £12.99 
                  Publisher:
                  Osprey Publishing
                   
                  Publish Date: 
      
                  
                   November 25, 2000 
                  Details: 96 pages; ISBN: 1841760781 | 
                  
                  
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      	Model, Images and Text Copyright © 
		2004 by Werner Scheibling 
		Page Created 13 August, 2004 
        Last Updated
        15 August, 2004
        
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