Tamiya / Wurger Mechanic
Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-13
Floyd S. Werner Jr.
Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-13
1/48 scale Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-9 is available from Squadron.com
The history of the Focke-Wulf Fw 190 is
well documented so I will just concentrate on the D-13. The D-13 was a
further development of the basic D-9. Re-engined with the Jumo 213, the
D-13 required a larger supercharger intake, the same type used by the
Ta-152. The engine was physically larger and this necessitated a larger
engine cowling with a bulge. It is difficult to see with the camouflage
but on the naked model the bulge is readily apparent. With the deletion
of the upper guns the upper cowl was streamlined and flattened. The
other obvious external difference is the single shell ejection port
between the wheel wells. The props were larger with the adoption of the
VS 9. The prop spinner was different in that it had an opening for the
engine mounted 20mm. As compared with the D-9, the fuel filler access
panel was mounted in a lower position and the engine primer hole was
In March through May 1945 JG 26 was to be
reequipped with the D-12, but the D-13 was substituted because the D-12
was cancelled. The D-12 was the same as the D-13 except for the engine
armament. The D-12 carried the Mk108 while the D-13 carried the MG
151. Current indications are that there were at least two D-13s
delivered to JG26. As far as I know there are no known photos of the
other D-13, leaving Yellow 10 as the only photo documented aircraft.
Yellow 10 was the personal mount of Oblt. Franz
Goetz, the commander of JG26. It was surrendered to the British at
Flensberg. It was decided to evaluate the aircraft in the USA. The
aircraft was shipped out on the HMS Reaper and the aircraft was
evaluated at Freeman Field and then sent out for scrap.
The aircraft was saved from the scrap heap and
after various owners it now resides in Seattle full restored to its
former glory. After seeing the aircraft in the color photos, some of
which were published here on HyperScale at
http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/yellow10fw_1.htm by me via
Jim Anderson, I knew that I wanted to take a shot at that camouflage.
In the Box
The Tamiya kit is typical Tamiya, molded in light
grey plastic with excellent detail.
One thing that Tamiya did wrong was to pattern the
D-9 after the Air Force Museum's Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-9 which had the
wrong lower wing. The wing originally belonged to the D-13 at that time
in the Champlin Fighter Collection. This actually works out for you as
you will want the single chute ejection port for the D-13. Tamiya fixed
the area on the JV44 issue, which has the correct D-9 center wing
One thing that is incorrect on both kits is the
wheel well area. The area should be open to allow the engine to be seen
from underneath. There has been talk of landing gear being too short,
spinner too small and some other nitnoid things.
Bottom line it is still the easiest D-9 to build
and it "looks" like a D-9.
For the D-13 most of the inaccuracies are taken
care of by the Wurger Mechanic with their full fuselage conversion. I
can not tell you how much I loved this set. OH MY GOD, it is soooo
sweet! The conversion comes with a complete resin fuselage that is
absolutely flawless and very hollow (spin casting?). If you didn't know
it was resin you would swear it was plastic. The only cleanup required
is the pour plugs on the ultra thin tail. Careful sanding and carving
will allow a perfect fit. Again, you would have thought it was a Tamiya
kit part. In addition to the fuselage, you get a new oil cooler and
cowl, spinner, prop blades (including separate hubs), upper cowling,
separate wheel centers, and three wheels.
This set is so well researched that you are given
two "normal" treaded tires and one "smooth" tire. Wurger Mechanic
points out that the left tire appears to be the smooth tread type in
photos, I agree.
I can't tell you how nice everything fitted
together. There was no need for filler anywhere. Other than having to
assemble with superglue the conversion is easy to use.
The Aires Cockpit
The kit cockpit is nice but I had the Aires set and
thought it was better than what Tamiya offered. Let me say that there
really isn't anything wrong with the Tamiya cockpit but the detail is
nicer in the Aires set. The Aires cockpit was assembled as per the
instructions with no problems. It fit like a champ, even with the
engine plug. I did have to sand it at the front slightly for a perfect
The cockpit was sprayed RML 66 and given a wash of
black artist oils. Once dry the assembly was dry brushed with RLM 02
and some silver. The seatbelts were painted in Polly-S Dirty White with
silver buckles and washed in burnt umber artist oils.
Parts-R-Parts Engine Plug
The other thing the kit needs is an engine plug.
Parts-R-Parts provide you with a specific engine model. The D-9 and the
D-11/12/13 engine plugs are different. Have I mentioned that I really
love the Wurger Mechanic fuselage? Well here is another reason, the
engine plug is designed for the Tamiya kit, but the Wurger Mechanic
conversion is just as thick as the Tamiya fuselage so the plug fit
perfectly. So well in fact that mine is not even glued in.
Paint the plug flat black and the back wall RLM
02. I added some plug wires, engine mounts, and various tubing to make
it "busy" inside the wheel well. The Parts-R Parts plug comes with a
new wheel well insert for the wings with the proper cut out.
The Wings and Tail Assembly
You will need to remove some detail in the kit wing
but it is plainly shown on the instructions and obvious in the test
fitting. All of the cuts are easy to make and logical in their
execution. Once this is done the Parts-R-Parts wheel well replacement
part fits in the wing perfectly. I painted mine RLM 02 and applied a
wash of Burnt Umber artist oils.
The horizontal tails fit perfectly in the resin
fuselage. The only thing that was "wrong" with the Wurger Mechanic
fuselage was that the antenna mount of the tail was not included or mine
broke off. Whichever it is, it is really not that big an issue. Just
cut the antenna mount off the kit part (your not going to use it anyhow)
and superglue it on the replacement fuselage and sand. The whole
process took maybe 10 minutes.
The fit of the wings to the replacement fuselage
was good, but I managed to screw it up as usual. I should have spread
the fuselage some more for a better fit, but didn't. The front and rear
mount points were perfect. I caused the problem by messing up the wing
fillet area. I think I got it fixed but it took longer than I would
have liked. This was a problem that was definitely my fault. The kit
fuselage had the same gap.
When painting Yellow 10 Jerry Crandall's book on
the aircraft is absolutely essential. The back cover shows the
evolution of the complex camouflage scheme.
I primed the whole aircraft with Tamiya Primer
White (Fine). I sanded this down for a smooth finish. After I used the
Black Magic canopy masks, I sprayed the canopy and along the panel lines
with RLM 66 to pre-shade the model then I applied Alclad Aluminum to the
appropriate parts. While it looked nice it was too plain. I thought
the pre-shade would come through but it wasn't dark enough to do what I
wanted. I thought I would experiment with the Alclad. I freehanded
some Dark Aluminum along the panel lines and some "spots" of White
Aluminum on the panels. This gave me a patchy look and a much more
realistic look. I also sprayed some Model Master Steel on some access
panels. Tamiya masking tape masked off the areas in prep for the next
colors. RLM 76 was applied to the appropriate areas on the wings and
fuselage. The next color was the RLM 75 on the lower wing leading
edge. You can't really notice it but the lower wing 75 is slightly
darker than the top. A lighter version of the RLM 75 was painted on the
entire upper surface. I didn't want to apply any overcoat to the
aluminum so I elected to paint the under wing crosses using the EagleCal
decals as master patterns for the under wing crosses. Using Tamiya
masking tape I painted Tamiya Flat Black cross. The look was perfect.
This process actually took longer than I anticipated because it was
difficult to get all the proportions symmetrical.
Once dry, I applied the light green from a mix of
Tamiya paints that I concocted. I thought the colors were a little too
bright on the restoration. When I looked at the photos of the real
airplane in 1945 the tonal differences between the light and dark green
was not as stark as the restoration. Artistic license, sue me. The
dark green was the next color and again I concocted it with Tamiya
paints. There were certain salient points in the paint scheme that I
wanted to hit such as the upper cowling "tiger-striped" look. I think I
hit all the key color points. I'm not sure if having four side views
was a good thing or not. It certainly added to the complexity of the
painting as I wanted everything to be "correct". The whole process took
about six hours worth of painting with my Tamiya airbrush. The end
results were very agreeable to me, perhaps even the best paint scheme
I've ever done, certainly the most complex.
The spinner was painted white and then the spiral
was masked with Tamiya tape. The whole thing was sprayed with Polly-S
RLM 25. The props were painted Tamiya Black Green. The hubs were
painted Model Master Titanium and the prop assembly was brought
together. You have to cut off the mount pin from the kit prop and it
fits perfectly. Like it could fit any different.
Tamiya Gloss Clear was used in preparation for the
The EagleCal decal sheet is a wealth of
information, but the book is really essential. The instructions contain
three of the four sides, almost necessitating the book. They are
printed by Microscale so they were thin, in register and opaque, which
is important with the various colors on this airplane. Because
Microscale printed them they reacted perfectly with MicroSol and
MicroSet. There is one marking that isn't provided that I didn't notice
until after the decals were on. There is a little black "jack here"
line that needs to be painted flat black by the rudder but it was easily
masked and painted.
The decals were sealed with Tamiya Clear Gloss and
once dry overnight a coat of Model Master Acrylic Flat was sprayed over
the entire model, except the aluminum underside.
I started by applying a wash of burnt umber artist
oil thinned with turpenoid to all the panel lines, even over the
aluminum. Then a silver pencil and pen were added to the wing leading
edge and various panels to simulate scuffing. Once that was done, a
very thin mix of three drops of Tamiya Dark Earth and two drops of flat
black were added to the airbrush with lots of thinner. This was used to
simulate the exhaust streaks. Once I was happy with the area that I
wanted covered I added a few more drops of flat black and a little more
thinner. This was then sprayed "inside" the other area to simulate the
dirtiest part of the exhaust. Pastels were used on various parts to
simulate dirt and shell ejection stains.
After adding all the other small parts the whole
model was sprayed with Model Master Acrylic Flat. The Black Magic mask
was removed to reveal a perfect canopy, even after the mask on over a
week. Any residue was easily cleaned up with a little bit of Goo Gone
on a cotton swab. An antenna was added between the canopy and the tail
and it was time to sit back and look at this colorful and unique
I've never built a Tamiya Focke-Wulf Fw 190, but
after this experience I know there will be more. In my eye the look and
the sit is absolutely perfect. I'm extremely happy with the results.
The paint scheme was a challenge but I like to think that I at least got
it close. I definitely learned some things with this model.
The Wurger Mechanic full fuselage conversion is the
easiest and fastest way to get an extremely accurate D-13. They also
have a full fuselage conversion for the D-11, which I just had to have.
Wurger Mechanic also offers a nose only conversion, but for a few
dollars more you get the whole shebang and no hassles. I hope I
conveyed how much I liked it or how well it fit. It is the best
conversion set I've ever had the pleasure to build. The Parts-R-Parts
wheel well and engine plug add dramatically to the overall look of the
underside and I feel essential. All my future D-9s through D-13s will
have this added to them. The Aires cockpit is very nice and the detail
is nicer than the kit. The wider floor is a nice way to spread the
fuselage and fit perfectly with all the conversion sets. The EagleCal
decals were perfect and well researched. I recommend you get the book
for "Yellow 10". The Black Magic masks were quick and easy to use. I
highly recommend all the aftermarket stuff, especially the Wurger
Mechanic fuselage, that I used they worked like a champ and as
If you want to add a unique late war aircraft this
is a great one to have. That paint scheme will stand out in any
I would like to thank my friends, Jim Anderson and
John Deffes for their support,
confidence in my ability and the motivation to build this beautiful
Tamiya Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-9 to Focke-Wulf
Fw 190D12/13 full fuselage conversion
Extremely Highly Recommended
Focke-Wulf Fw 190D Cockpit Set
Tamiya Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-9/11/12/13 Engine
Yellow 10 & Friends
CEBM48083-Focke-Wulf Fw 190"Blown"
Canopy/Wheel Hub masks
"Yellow 10"-The story of the ultra-rare Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-13, Jerry
Crandall, Eagle Editions, 2000, ISBN 0-9660706-3-1
Focke-Wulf Fw 190D, E. Brown Ryle and Malcolm Laing, Squadron/Signal
Publications, 1997, ISBN 0-89747-374-4
Aero Detail 2 Focke
Wulf Focke-Wulf Fw 190D, Dai Nippon Kaiga Co., 1990, ISBN
Click on the thumbnails
below to view larger images:
|Focke-Wulf Fw 190
Modelling Manuals 20
US Price: $17.95
UK Price: £12.99
May 25, 2002
Details: 64 pages; ISBN: 1841762687
Model, Images and Text Copyright ©
2004 by Floyd S. Werner Jr.
Page Created 26 September, 2004
Last Updated 27 September, 2004
HyperScale Main Page