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         Classic 
		Airframes' Vampire FB.31 
		Noddy's Interceptor 
        
        by Brett Green 
          
        
          
            
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               De Havilland 
				Vampire FB. Mk.31 
				25 Sqn RAAF, Pearce, Western Australia, Sqn Ldr C.F. Favish  | 
             
           
         
        
         
        
 
            
          
		Classic 
		Airframes' 1/48 scale Vampire Export Version 
		is available online from Squadron.com 
		
          
        
          
		
		 If Noddy was a fighter pilot, surely his mount would have to 
		be a Vampire.  
		They have plenty in common. Both are largely constructed of 
		wood, both are diminutive and both have a close association with Big 
		Ears. Furthermore, the Vampire FB.5 and Noddy are each endearing and 
		enduring relics of 1950s Britain. 
		Noddy's Vampire would have to wear a suitable finish. No camouflage 
		on this little airframe. High gloss red would be the right choice for 
		patrolling the skies above Toytown. 
		By happy chance, just such a Vampire flew with the Royal Australian 
		Air Force. This was a special scheme worn by Squadron Leader C.F. 
		Favish's Vampire FB.31 of 25 Squadron in the late 1950s. Classic 
		Airframes' new 1/48 scale Vampire Export Version kit includes markings 
		for this aircraft. 
		  
		  
        
          
		Classic Airframes recently released their 1/48 scale Vampire single 
		seater export version kit (#495), which included the option of an 
		ejection seat. However, I started my Australian Vampire FB.31 before 
		this model was available, so I commenced building the original release - 
		kit #470, the Vampire FB.5 - with the Aeroclub Martin Baker MB.2 seat 
		Unbeknownst to me when I started building, the ejection seat equipped Vampire 
		featured a significantly revised cockpit. The rear bulkhead was 
		moved further back to accommodate the much bulkier ejection seat, and it is 
		seems that the cockpit floor was lowered for the same reason. In my 
		ignorance, I tried to shoehorn the Aeroclub seat into 
		the space designed for a flat pan and backrest. Not surprisingly, I had 
		some difficulty. I trimmed a few millimetres from the bottom of the 
		seat, and managed to squeeze the seat into the FB.5 cockpit. 
		I should emphasise that this was not the fault of the very nice 
		Aeroclub seat. Classic Airframes' Vampire Export Version boxing includes 
		the revised cockpit (the original tub is included in the kit too) and the supplied ejection seat fits perfectly.  
		My 
		advice is, if you are building a Vampire fitted with a bang seat, buy 
		Classic Airframes' kit number 495! 
		I also used the Aeroclub replacement fuselage, which is 3mm longer 
		than the kit parts and locates the cockpit opening 2mm further forward. 
		Many modellers will consider these dimensional discrepancies are not 
		worth worrying about, but I thought that the Aeroclub fuselage delivered 
		a noticeable improvement to the shapes and relationships around the 
		forward fuselage pod, the canopy and intakes. 
		  
		
		  
        Click the thumbnails 
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 Aeroclub's Martin Baker seat was used. I had to cut a few millimetres from the bottom of the seat to help it fit into the FB.5 cockpit.   | 
 
 
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 The cockpit components are painted and ready for assembly  | 
 
 
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 Because the cockpit is located further forward, the fit will be improved by trimming the front corners of the cockpit floor.  | 
 
 
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 Plenty of nose weight is required to avoid the Vampire sitting on its tail booms. These are small lead sinkers held in place with super glue.  | 
 
 
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		Construction was typical for the current generation of limited run, 
		multi-media kits. The most important steps are thorough preparation of 
		the parts and test fitting. 
		Test fitting suggested that the cockpit floor was too wide at the 
		front to fit between the Aeroclub fuselage halves. This was not 
		surprising, as the cockpit is located several millimetres further 
		forward in the Aeroclub fuselage compared to the original kit fuselage. 
		The front sides of the cockpit floor was trimmed and tested again until 
		a good fit was achieved in this narrower space. The sides of the 
		instrument panel needed to be slightly trimmed too. 
		This model demands plenty of nose weight to avoid tail-sitting. I 
		packed as many lead sinkers as would fit into the nose, and also in the 
		front of the wing just behind the intakes. 
		  
		
		  
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        below to view larger images: 
		
			
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 After a little fiddling, the fit of the Aeroclub replacement fuselage is really quite good. The only major area requiring attention was a gap between the fuselage halves behind the front wheel well insert.  | 
 
 
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 The inside of the top wing and the top of the resin wheel well must be thinned before assembly  | 
 
 
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 I also "scooped out" some material on the mating surfaces of the resin Aerclub intakes using my Dremel fitted with a dental burr to get a nice, flush fit against the fuselage side.  | 
 
 
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 The fit of the wings to the fuselage was trouble free, although there was a step at the wing root. This was reduced by sanding with course abrasive paper.  | 
 
 
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		After several dry runs, I glued the fuselage halves together. The fit 
		was really quite good, with the only significant gap between the cannon 
		access panel and the forward wheel well. Fortunately this was an 
		even gap that was easily filled with plastic strip. 
		In common with many other limited run kits, the inside of the top wing 
		halves 
		needed to be thinned substantially before the resin wheel well inserts 
		were installed. The top of the wheel well inserts were also thinned 
		until the resin was almost transparent. 
		To their great credit, Classic Airframes corrected the shape of the 
		wing intakes in the Export Vampire kit. They are an obvious improvement 
		over the items included in the Vampire FB.5 kit. However, as mentioned 
		earlier, I started my project before the Export version kit was 
		released. I therefore used Aeroclub's resin replacement intakes. These 
		slotted into the wings with a slight overlap at top and bottom. The step 
		was backfilled with Milliput and, when set, sanded flush. 
		The wings were secured to the fuselage pod at this time. I considered 
		installing a spar to reinforce the join, but decided that the bond was 
		probably strong enough as it was. Once in place, the dihedral of the 
		wings was almost flat, comparing well with the real aircraft.  
		Each of the tail booms is moulded with a narrow locating lip. 
		I beefed up the joint with airfoil-shaped styrene and scrap plastic. I 
		was originally going to use telescoping brass rods, but decided that the 
		additional weight aft of the main wheels would more than offset the 
		extra weight that I had so carefully squeezed into the nose of the 
		model. 
		The plastic reinforcement worked well, creating a strong, positive 
		bond. 
		  
		
		  
        Click the thumbnails 
        below to view larger images: 
		
			
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 Fine wire was inserted in each end of the horizontal tailplanes, and a corresponding hole drilled on the inside of the booms, to ensure a solid join.  | 
 
 
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 Australian FB.31 Vampires were fitted with auxiliary "Elephant Ear" intakes on the lower fuselage. These are supplied in the CA kit. Rocket rails were sourced from  a Dynavector Wyvern.  | 
 
 
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		The horizontal tailplanes did not have any locating 
		aids, so this join was reinforced with brass pins drilled into each end. 
		I should have paid as much attention to assembly as preparation, though, 
		as I glued the tailplanes on upside down! 
		With the main airframe completed, I filled a number of 
		gaps and seams with Milliput.  
		Classic Airframes supplies a cover for the auto-pilot 
		gyro in their new kit, but I had already formed my own using plastic 
		strip, a hobby knife and a sanding stick. Comparing the home-made 
		version with the resin kit part and reference photos shows that mine is 
		a bit too big, and the Classic Airframes part is a bit too small. Having 
		already invested the time, I used my oversized fairing. A narrow bead of 
		stretched sprue was wrapped around the base and secured with liquid glue 
		to finish off the distinctive cover. 
		I also drilled a hole in the middle of the nose, as may 
		be seen in several reference photos of this aircraft. 
		  
		
		  
        Click the thumbnails 
        below to view larger images: 
		
			
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 The new gyro fairing was formed from two pieces of styrene strip glued together, the cut to a rough shape.  | 
 
 
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 The shape was improved by sanding.  | 
 
 
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 Final sanding and shaping delivered a new, lager gyro cover for the Vampire's nose.  | 
 
 
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 The kit fairing is seen on the right hand side. With the benefit of hindsight, I realise that I made the fairing too big. The correct size is probably about halfway between these two.  | 
 
 
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		Another characteristic of Aussie Vampires is the fitting 
		of "elephant ear" intakes on the bottom of the fuselage. These 
		supplementary intakes directed additional air to the Rolls Royce Nene powerplant. 
		By the time I got to this stage of construction, the Classic Airframes 
		Export Version kit had arrived, which includes a pair of elephant ear 
		intakes. These were simply glued in place.  
		This particular airframe was also fitted with a pair of 
		rocket rails under each wing. I raided my unbuilt Dynavector Wyvern kit 
		for these parts. The front mounts of the white metal rails were 
		shortened to fit the Vampire, then secured beneath the wings with super 
		glue. 
		The kit pitot tube was glued to the port side fin, and 
		the undercarriage elements were cleaned up and assembled prior to 
		painting. 
		  
		  
        
          
		Painting 
		This Vampire features a very, very simple colour scheme 
		- overall high gloss Post Office Red. 
		I started with a coat of Tamiya Surface Primer straight 
		from the can. This highlighted a few spots that needed rescribing or 
		filling. 
		Next, two coats of Tamiya TS 49 Bright Red, also 
		straight from the spray can. After around an hour, the glossy finish was 
		polished with Micro Mesh cloths, starting with 4,000 grade and moving up 
		to 12,000 grade before a final buff with the tip of my index finger.  
		This would have to be one of my fastest paint jobs ever! 
		 
		 
		Weathering 
		Weathering was kept to a minimum. A thin mix of 
		semi-gloss black was painted into the aileron and elevator hinge lines. 
		A sooty black-brown was also sprayed around the cannon ports. These 
		blast stains can be seen in reference photos on the otherwise impeccably 
		finished airframe. 
		  
		
		  
        Click the thumbnails 
        below to view larger images: 
		
			
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 The model received a base coat of Tamiya Surface Primer before its coat of Tamiya TS 49 Bright Red. The primer and paint were applied straight from the can, then polished with MicroMesh cloths.  | 
 
 
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 Thanks to the high gloss finish, no special preparation was required before decals were applied. They performed flawlessly.  | 
 
 
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 Kit decals were supplemented with the star on the nose, plus the ejection seat warning triangle and Sqn Ldr pennant on the starboard fuselage side.  | 
 
 
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		Decals 
		I have access to a colour reference photo that shows 
		this aircraft with a rectangular Squadron Leader's pennant behind a 
		flying bird on the starboard side, and a prominent warning triangle 
		behind the pennant. The photo also reveals a small white or (more 
		likely) light blue star surrounding the hole in the tip of the nose.  
		None of these decals are supplied in the kit, so I 
		scrounged my decal collection. The ejection seat warning was a 
		combination of a white triangle from a Dutch Decals sheet, superimposed 
		with a smaller red triangle from a Model Alliance sheet. The pennant 
		came from an Aeromaster decal set for late mark Spitfires, while the 
		small star was sourced from a 1/35 scale Tamiya armour sheet. 
		The Classic Airframes decals performed beautifully. The 
		edges of the decals disappeared against the paint - so much so that I 
		decided not to even add a gloss coat. 
		 
		 
		Finishing Touches 
		Aeroclub supplied a vacform canopy with their 
		replacement fuselage. I used the vacform sliding section - which has a 
		better profile than the kit part - but the Classic Airframes' windscreen 
		was installed. I sprayed the front of the windscreen Tamiya Clear Blue 
		to represent the tinting sometimes applied to Australian Vampires. 
		The gear legs are positively secured in their positions 
		via deep locating mounts. The only problem is that the front gear leg is 
		angled forward, whereas it should be almost vertical or even angled 
		slightly back according to 
		reference photos. I shortened the retraction strut and bent the front 
		gear leg back, but even this was not quite enough. Next time I will 
		probably cut off the locating pin before repositioning the gear leg. 
		The final task was to install the whip antenna on the 
		back of the canopy. I drilled through the canopy to the fuselage deck, 
		so the whip antenna was not only decorative but also served as an anchor 
		for the canopy. 
		When I placed the model on its wheels it rocked back 
		onto its tail booms. I did not have enough noseweight! I glued another 
		two lead weights inside the nose wheel bay and, to my relief, that was 
		enough to make the model tip forward and sit on all three wheels. 
		  
		  
        
          
		I love the quirky form of the Vampire, and I was 
		delighted when Classic Airframes released their new series of kits. 
		But how does the newcomer compare to the incumbent? 
		I took the opportunity to slap together the old 
		Hobbycraft Vampire in a half-hour session to place the two kits side by 
		side. The conclusion is unmistakable.  
		  
		
		  
		  
		The Hobbycraft kit looks just awful.  
		The worst aspects are the fuselage pod, which is located 
		too far forward (it does not even protrude behind of the trailing 
		edge of the wings), the oddly shaped nose, the skinny booms and the 
		woefully undersized fins, which are probably 25-30% too small. The booms 
		are also too close together, and the intakes bear no resemblance to the 
		real thing. Perhaps the most striking aspect is the anhedral (droop) of 
		the wings. Some minor faults might have been forgivable, but the 
		Hobbycraft kit looks almost like a Salvador Dali surrealistic impression 
		of a Vampire.  
		On the other hand, Classic Airframes has nicely captured 
		the essence of this unique jet fighter. It is clearly superior to the 
		Hobbycraft kit in terms 
		of both shape and detail. 
		Is the kit perfect? No. However, if you are the sort of 
		modeller who is not bothered about a few millimetres discrepancy here and 
		there, you will build the Vampire straight from the box and be pleased 
		with the result. 
		  
		
		  
		  
		For those who want a Vampire that will pass the 
		micrometer test, Aeroclub offers a simple solution via their replacement 
		fuselage, which also includes a new canopy. Classic Airframes themselves 
		have addressed the problem of the intakes with their redesigned resin 
		parts in the Vampire Export Version kit (#495). 
		Regardless of whether or not you use after market parts, 
		this is the best injection moulded 1/48 scale Vampire available today. 
		If you have previous experience with limited run models, 
		you won't run into any surprises building Classic Airframes' kit of this 
		important pioneering fighter aircraft. 
		Thanks to Classic Airframes for the sample 
         
        Model, Text and Photographs Copyright © 
        2005 by Brett Green 
        except Noddy image from the BBC website 
        Page Created 28 April, 2005 
Last Updated 28 May, 2005
        
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