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      Heinkel He 219 
      
      
      by 
      
      Kay Koglin 
        
      
        
          
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            Heinkel He 219  | 
           
         
       
      
       
      
        
      
      
      Tamiya's 
      1/48 scale Heinkel He 219 is available online from 
      
    Squadron.com 
      
        
      
      
       
       
      It is not easy to report on a modeling project that extends back three 
      years, but I will try anyway. 
       
      I love the Heinkel He 219 and the finished diorama looks impressive. But 
      unfortunately, three years ago, I wasn‘t able to take photos of the 
      construction work. I will therefore use this article to report problems 
      and the main features of construction. For me, it is very important to use 
      a new modelling project to help my own further development as a modeler. 
       
      I recall, just before Christmas some years ago, being overwhelmed when I 
      saw the contents of the box. The outstanding quality of the parts that 
      left nothing further wanted. When I examined the three-view-drawing for 
      the painting-scheme I realized that I wanted to start building the model 
      straight away, but in reality it was some time before I got started.  
       
      Tamiya’s Heinkel He 219 presented an irresistable invitation to modify the 
      basic kit to into a high-detailed model. This superdetailing project 
      helped to decide her nickname “The Venus of Rostock”. 
        
      
        
       
       
      I began with researching the interior, including detail photos of the 
      engine, the armament and the cockpit. However, I would up in a dead end 
      because I could not find this information anywhere in a book. I therefore 
      began the long wait for a detail-set that would offer the details that I 
      would like to depict in the model.  
       
      Verlinden was the first with his Update kit, but unfortunately this update 
      did not meet the standards of the day, having only a small amount of 
      detail but with a high price and moreover still with some errors. The CMK 
      detail set was better, but with the appearance of the AIRES-Kit, the 
      choice was clear. 
       
      On the same day that I took deliver of the Aires set, I started with 
      construction. I can remember well, there was an inexhaustible quantity of 
      parst in a quality never before available, and this at a fair price! 
       
      The finished model looks from the first glance, but it is nevertheless a 
      big project with many problems encountered before the final resu;t. During 
      construction I came to the point where the the desire to actually complete 
      the model was overtaken by the thought that I would never finish – I could 
      not see the light at the end of the tunnel! My recommendation is not to 
      put yourself under pressure to finish by setting artificial deadlines. 
      Just enjoy the experience. 
       
       
  
      
       
      I do not need to describe the basic construction because the Tamiya kit 
      does not present any nasty surprises. I will therefore focus on the detail 
      sets. 
  
      Installing the Aries 
      Update 
      Preparation for the 
      installation of the Aires detail set requires that many kit parts are 
      altered. First, all doors and bays that that will be displayed open must 
      be cut out. I used a small saw for this task. Before I cut with the saw, I 
      used my Dremel tool and drilled a hole in every corner of the doors. This 
      makes the cuts with the saw easier and acts as a guide to prevent errors.
       
       
      To reproduce the thin sheet metals used at airplanes skins I again usedmy 
      Dremel with the cutter and milled the plastic of the kit from the inside. 
      The thinned plastic looks authentically thin after this process. Tak your 
      time with this process, however, as it is very easy to damage the plastic 
      parts if you rush. 
       
      The mounting of the wheel well, the engine compartment and the engine 
      turned out to be the most difficult part of the assembly. This entailed 
      many hours of cutting, sanding and dry fitting of the parts. I repeated my 
      technique for representing the thin sheet metal used for the skin of an 
      aircraft.  
        
      
        
       
       
      Good references are required for wiring the engine, otherwise a good 
      imagination will be helpful. I prepared the engine for wiring by drilling 
      out locating holes. I used thin cooper-wire - don’t forget to anneal the 
      copper-wire (carefully heating over a candle) to make the parts more 
      flexible. The same can be done with photo-etched parts too, but be 
      careful. Overheating might destroy some more delicate parts! 
       
      Thick super glue was used to secure the resin parts. This is also handy 
      for filling gaps between the resin and plastic parts. Take care not to get 
      this glue on the parts though. 
       
      For gluing the plastic-parts I used liquid glue and the 
      “Squeeze-Technique”. The big advantage is that the parts set quickly and 
      there is not much risk of residue. The process is simple, it needs only a 
      thin brush. Hold the two parts together and with the brush, soaked with 
      the liquid glue, brush along the seam. Through the capillary-effect, the 
      liquid-glue flows into the seam by itself. Finishing the join is very 
      easy, it is only necessary to sand the seam slightly.  
       
  
      
       
      My Painting Technique 
      Xtra Color RLM 02 was used 
      to paint the interior, including the cockpit and wheel wells.. In order to 
      give the paintjob a three-dimensional finish, I use heavily thinned dark 
      color and a thin brush. I pointed the brush in corners and because of the 
      capillary-effect the thinned dark color flows in the corner and edges. 
      After a drying time of 24 hours I drybrushed details with white artist 
      oils. The advantage of the oil paint is that it leaves a soft transition 
      between the colors and, in the case that there might be too much oil paint 
      on the model, it can be removed by a brush that has been slightly 
      moistened with thinners. This technique can be applied on many other parts 
      of the model too.  
        
      
        
       
       
      The painting of the He 219 was in accordance with the Tamiya instructions 
      using Xtra-Color RLM76 lightened with white. The disruptive camouflage was 
      RLM 75 Grey Violet. Spraying the detailed camouflage pattern proved 
      trying. 
      Decals  
       
      Application of the decals from the kit performed well with the help of my 
      favorite decal softener, Gunze’s Mr. Mark. 
  
       
       
      Weathering 
      Weathering is one of the 
      most controversial issues for modelers. My philosophy is, the less the 
      better!  
       
      For example, the He 219 represents a German high-tech weapon in the last 
      year of the war, therefore it is logical to assume that she was well 
      maintained by Luftwaffe technicians. She would have little evidence of 
      aging and weathering. That is the reason why I only shaded the panel lines 
      with heavily thinned, dark coloured oil paint applied with a fine brush 
      taking advantage of the capillary-effect-method. I went over the panel 
      lines with the tip of a cotton bud afterwards to clean up any excess wash. 
       
      After a coat of Matt varnish, I further accentuated the panels by spraying 
      a thin coat of a solution from Matt Lacquer and Burnt Sienna oil paint. 
      The advantage of this technique is that faults are less visible and it 
      does not exaggerate the structure too much. 
        
        
      
        
      The airfield diorama is not 
      composed in the classic military method. Since, as already mentioned, the 
      He-219 was a high-tech weapon system, it is understandable that it would 
      not be rolled out on a dirty meadow. Wartime photos suggest that the He 
      219 was operated on concrete.  
       
      The base consists of a wood-picture frame. I like using these picture 
      frames which are inexpensive and effective. I leave the glass in the 
      framework and replenish the framework with corrugated cardboard. In order 
      to add variety to the concrete, I positioned clumps of grass and. I spread 
      white glue on to the cardboard and sprinkled this with the sand and grass. 
      I left this to dry for 24 hours. After the white glue is dry, I blow away 
      loose material with a hair dryer. Subsequently the entire basis-plate, 
      including the concrete surface, were worked over with my airbrush. 
       
      The VW Kübelwagen is a resin kit from the Hungarian manufacturer FM in 
      1/48 scale. Beside the usual preparation and assembly of resin parts, no 
      particular difficulties were encountered. The painting of this little 
      model took place using the same techniques that I used for the He 219. 
        
      
        
       
       
      As an eye-catcher, I added a map from a Verlinden-Set in the Kübelwagen. 
       
      The figures come from Verlinden and Reheat.  
      
      I hope that I have mentioned all significantly items of the building of my 
      He 219 Diorama and I also hope that I have encouraged some modelers to 
      build their own He 219 Diorama. 
  
       
       
  
      
        
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          Project Components Summary: 
          
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      Click the thumbnails below to view larger 
      images: 
      
       
      Model, Images  and Text Copyright © 
      2003 by Kay Koglin 
      Page Created 05 November, 2003 
      Last Updated
      17 March, 2004 
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