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      USS Hornet CV-8 
      
      by Dan Hamilton   
        
          
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            USS Hornet |  
      
  Trumpeter's 
      1/350 USS Hornet is available online from Squadron
   
      Knowing from the beginning of World War II 
      that the surprise attack on American territory at Pearl Harbor required a 
      quick answer in kind, President Franklin Roosevelt consistently had been 
      pressuring the U.S. military to somehow strike back at the Japanese home 
      island.  The plan finally settled upon was to strike the Japanese capital 
      and other cities with land based B-25 medium Army bombers from a aircraft 
      carrier.  No one knew for sure if a B-25 with full crew, bomb load and a 
      mandatory extra fuel tank could actually get into the air from a crowded 
      carrier deck.  It was a far fetched, near suicidal plan, but America 
      needed a victory fast.
 On April 18, 1942, 
        with waves crashing over the Hornet’s pitching deck in front of him, Lt. 
        Col. James (“Jimmy”) Doolittle started his B-25 lumbering slowly down 
        the crowded deck of the USS Hornet.  Despite the pitching deck and the 
        strong wind, Doolittle expertly kept the front and left wheels on the 
        deck’s newly painted white lines to ensure his right wing would not 
        collide with the Hornet’s island and his left wheel would not slip 
        overboard.  As the Hornet’s bow reached its lowest and started again its 
        upward pitch, Doolittle passed the ship’s island, lifted the nose of the 
        Mitchell and then the rest of the plane gently off the rising deck.  
        Thereafter 15 other B-25’s followed their leader and similarly launched 
        successfully from the Hornet.  Admiral William (“Bull”) Halsey would 
        later write:  “In my opinion, their flight was one of the most 
        courageous deeds in military history.”        
         Though the Doolittle 
      Raid was later claimed by Japanese propagandists to be the “Do-nothing” 
      raid because it resulted in relatively minor damage to the Japanese cities 
      bombed, it has gone down in history not only as a remarkable story of 
      courage and badly needed morale boost but as the motivating factor that 
      would lead to the turning point of the war in the Pacific -- the Battle of 
      Midway.  It also, by the way, makes a great subject for modeling.  
             As someone who just 
      got back into modeling after a 20 year hiatus and had last built a 20th 
      Century warship back in the 20th Century when he was around 12, 
      my reaction when I opened the box was:  “Boy is 1/350th a big 
      scale for an aircraft carrier (over 28” long)!”  The shelf my wife has 
      granted [er, . . . tolerated] me to use for model display is now far too 
      small.  On the other hand, boy is this scale small for all the airplanes 
      (my project has 16 B-25s [18 parts each!], and one each of a token F4f, 
      Devastator and Dauntless) and men (103) that I have chosen to build, paint 
      and put on!  My fingers are too big, my vision too dull and my patience 
      too short!  Welcome to modeling in the 21st Century!  The kit 
      provides only enough aircraft parts to make two B-25s, two fighters, two 
      dive bombers/scouts and two torpedo bombers.  Hence, because I wanted to 
      do the Doolittle raid, a supplemental kit containing a set of 10 extra 
      B-25 parts are not enough – I needed two sets -- which left me with many 
      more extra B-25’s than I needed to canabalize for all the microscopic 
      parts that disappeared when they slipped out of my fingers. There were few decals 
      needed for the ship, though the ship’s name on the stern seems to have 
      been in the wrong color according to dry dock pictures in Warship 
      Pictorial # 9 at p. 45 (white instead of back).  The decals for the planes 
      were good for the carrier based aircraft, but a major headache for 
      the B-25’s.  This is because only some of the serial numbers reflected 
      those on the actual planes – while the majority were made up 
      numbers!  You would expect a kit designer either to not care and make them 
      all up, or try to do everything authentically (like Accurate Miniatures 
      kits).  But why did the Trumpeter designers put in the effort to be right 
      on some serial numbers (e.g., Doolittle’s, Ted Lawson’s) and simply 
      pretend about the others?  No photo-etch parts are included in the kit and 
      in this scale they are needed.  Hence I used a set from Tom’s Model Works 
      which were great and, though not as detailed as others that I lusted 
      after, they were far more reasonable in cost – especially as the total 
      costs of this massive project (for me anyway) added up.       For a novice at 
      massive ship models with massive detail and photo-etch, construction of 
      the ship itself was amazingly smooth.  Far less filling and sanding than I 
      expected.  The parts fit well and the pictures only instructions were 
      quite helpful.  Being inexperienced with photo etch railing, Tom’s 
      instructions took some time to get used to but I finally figured it out 
      and they looked good after I got the hang of how to do it – however there 
      were no instructions telling me what to do with all that railing so I just 
      guessed from photos and did my best.  (Like working on a car, its 
      bothersome when you have some parts left over!)  Now for the complaints: 
      the designers again made some odd choices.  Much internet comment was 
      given to the apparently inaccurate bow shape (to be honest, I could not 
      tell), but nowhere have I seen anyone complain about some real obvious 
      design errors.  They range from relatively minor mistakes like the 
      mislocation of the deck crane (which, if not changed to where photos show 
      it should be, would in real life be an obstacle to flight operations!).  
      More obvious, the designers for some reason added a second yard arm to the 
      island’s aft mast – which every photo of the Hornet and 
      Yorktown 
      class ship shows only has one.  This becomes obvious when trying to rig 
      the masts which, again, must be done from photo research in that NO 
      guidance is provided.     
         Besides the above 
      noted necessary changes for accuracy, I found a fortuitous mention in “The 
      Ship That Held The Line,” at p. 70, that a hanger deck door was open at 
      the time Doolittle took off.  Because all the Hornet’s ship based planes 
      were in the hanger at the time, an open hanger deck door would allow me to 
      show off an example of each kind of the three types of Navy plane.  
      However, the only pictures and films taken of the ship during launch seem 
      to show the starboard side and that the roller doors were closed on that 
      side (understandable because of the storm they were in at the time).  
      Hence, I chose to open the roller doors on the port side only.  A hot 
      exacto knife did the trick to cut away the molded in place doors.  In that 
      the kit provided only two of each type of carrier plane and little of the 
      ship’s interior can be seen away from the doorways, things worked out 
      fine.  The airplanes are amazingly accurate for their scale, but when you 
      have to build 16 of the same kind the joy evaporates over time and I had 
      to fight the urge just to slap the little suckers together!  However, 
      patience, patience, patience and a purposeful decision to act in shifts 
      over time was my salvation.  The same is true for the 1/350th 
      scale photo-etch sailors from Tom’s Model works.  Another hundred or two 
      would have been great, but there are limits to my now Zen-like purposeful 
      patience!  However, the extra ships railings that I did not know what to 
      with from Tom’s Model Works were perfect for use -- after being cut down 
      -- as double machine guns for B-25’s.  A missing touch that I can’t 
      believe the after market folks seem to have so far overlooked.  
       Finally came the 
      “spotting” of the bombers on the deck.  After studying photos and reading 
      accounts, it is clear at the time of the launch that the tails of the last 
      two Mitchells extended precariously over the stern of the ship while the 
      rest were cheek to jowl on the deck in two lines at an angles facing each 
      other.  (Indeed, DeShazer’s B-25 #16 was discovered at take off to have a 
      hole in its Plexiglas nose -- making his bombing duties over the city of 
      Nagoya exceedingly unpleasant with a couple hundred mile an hour wind in 
      his face).          The single item that 
      was most time consuming however was dealing with the B-25 decal problem.  
      I could find no 1/350th scale after market decals of the 
      Doolittle planes.  My only solution was to buy Accurate Miniature’s 1/48 
      B-25B model that has a wonderful set of decals containing markings for 
      EVERY ONE of the 16 planes – including the way cool nose art for those 
      planes that historians think had them!  Only problem of course is that 
      they are WAY too large a scale.  Hence, much time was spent scanning the 
      decals into my computer, reducing them to the proper miniature scale and 
      laboriously using Corel Print Office software to outline them to be 
      visible at 1/350th scale.  Its not as sharp as properly 
      designed 1/350th scale decals but better in my mind than having 
      phony serial numbers -- plus I got to put on some really microscopic nose 
      art.  Someone PLEASE fill this need!  The Accurate Miniatures B-25 kit’s 
      painting instructions also came in handy – not only telling me where to 
      paint what, but giving me the exact paint numbers from various 
      manufacturers that would be appropriate.  (Why doesn’t Accurate Miniatures 
      do ships?)  I chose the Model Masters Acrylic Olive Drab (Tes4728) and 
      Natural Grey (Tes4757).  The rest (e.g. leading edge de-icers, prop 
      warning stripe) was hand painted with artists acrylic tube paint. As to painting the 
      ship, Trumpeter provided a nifty glossy color profile -- ignore it.  It 
      shows only two colors for the Ms 12-modified camouflage pattern, but in 
      reality the photos show and the resources confirm it used three colors 
      (Navy Blue 5-N, Ocean Gray 5-0, and Haze Gray 5-H).  Again, Model Masters 
      had just what I needed (Tes4241, Tes4239 & Tes4238 respectively).  The 
      flight deck was, according to Warship Pictorial # 9 at p. 53, the color 
      “Norfolk 250N Flight Deck Stain.”  The closest I could find to that 
      description was what Model Masters calls “Flight Deck Grey” (Tes4243).  
      Guides for the wave-like contours of the camouflage were found in the 
      great colored picture on the cover of Warship Pictorial #9 and several B&W 
      photos inside it.  As to the flight deck, the Hornet crew had painted two 
      white lines of different widths and lengths for the Army pilots to follow 
      so as not to collide with the island or overcompensate and runoff the 
      other side.  I did -- as some resources suggest -- and masked off lines 
      using tape and then painted the surface exposed between them which 
      produced two nice straight lines (though perhaps too wide for the scale).  
      But still being a newbee I stupidly used regular scotch tape which took 
      off all the deck paint beneath it when I removed the tape.  (I blush to 
      admit this!)     
         Finally because of 
      the heavy seas, and I think some defective paint, the real Hornet came 
      back from the raid with serious chipped paint at the waterline on the 
      bow.  See e.g. Warship Pictorial #9 at pp. 56 & 57.  Because the 
      underlying molded plastic seems to be similar to the color showing under 
      the chipped paint in the photos, I simply scratched the paint off like the 
      real thing and I think it passes.  Though I found a reference in “The Ship 
      That Held The Line” and in “The First Heroes” to the words “REMEMBER PEARL 
      HARBOR” being painted on the Hornet’s stack (which would be a really nice 
      touch to add to the model), I could find no pictures of the same and the 
      scholars and vets (who were actually there) graciously responded to 
      e-mails sent via the Battle Of Midway Roundtable (lodinet.com/rruss/midway/index.html) 
      that it simply was not there.  Though disappointing, that settled the 
      issue for me.  Likewise, help from Doolittle discussion groups (e.g. 
      doolittleraider.com/ and doolittleraid.com/) pointed out the prominent 
      presence of non-skid squares on the flight deck that can clearly be seen 
      in the photos of the launch, but for which I have found no other 
      reference.  Modeling in the 21st Century does have some 
      advantages apparently.      
        
          | 
          Sea Surface 
          Base and Display Case |    Finally, the question 
      I seldom see discussed:  what the heck do I do with it when its finished 
      so that it can be seen but not destroyed by dust fixated housekeepers and 
      curious children?  I still have “issues” from childhood memories of coming 
      home waiting to learn of the latest in the slow attrition of my models 
      from my mother’s efforts to dust “Danny’s models.”  Decades later, I’ve 
      learned to protect my other more workable size models from my wife and 
      children by using cheap car model display cases.  With a little 
      creativity, you can make some interesting (and dust proof) mini dioramas.  
      But what do you do with a 28 inch aircraft carrier with fragile 1/350th 
      scale planes in precarious positions on its deck?  My solution: buy a 
      baseball bat memorabilia case -- a bit long and a tad narrow, but with 
      some modification and building the Hornet in a waterline version, it just 
      fit.  However a carrier launching planes while steaming through a nice 
      wood stained base just would not look right.  So, with some advice from a 
      local hobby store, I painted the base dark blue and placed a cut piece of 
      plastic fluorescent light cover (easily obtained from a hardware store) on 
      top -- creating a great rippled sea look.  I then used white silicon from 
      a caulking gun for the wake (as suggested in “How to Build Dioramas,” at 
      p. 90) and was done.     
         Thereafter I took 
      some pictures in by backyard and realized it just did not look right with 
      green (ok, there’s a lot of brown in there too) grass in the background.  
      Accordingly, I manipulated the background with Adobe Photo Shop software.  
      All I had to do was repeatedly use the “clone” feature on an area from the 
      “sea” base to create a digital “ocean” for my ship to sail over rather 
      than the grass.  Likewise, an old blue towel placed in the background 
      allowed me to create a sky by the same “cloning” feature.  Now if I could 
      only figure a way to digitally manipulate my ship to cover up all the 
      mistakes I know I made in its construction!       In that even an 
      unsophisticated and retro modeler like me could make something presentable 
      speaks volumes about the Hornet’s quality as a kit.  Further, though 
      sometimes irritating, the little historical inaccuracies that I fell 
      across were kind of satisfying finding and correcting.  If I could 
      complete it, it certainly is not beyond the average modeler.  However, you 
      definitely have to do it as a long term project and not as a short term 
      fling.  As the phantom voice said to the hero in the movie and book “Field 
      of Dreams“ -- “GO THE DISTANCE.”  I also would plead, PLEASE do your 
      research -- the story of the Doolittle Raid, the USS Hornet and the brave 
      men involved more than deserve your study and will give meaning to what 
      you build.           Click on the thumbnails 
        below to view larger images: 
 Model, Images and Text Copyright © 
      2003 by Dan HamiltonPage Created 09 August, 2003
 Last Updated
      17 March, 2004
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